Frequently Asked Questions

A.  What do I need to do to get my quilt ready to send to you?

There are a few steps that will make this a more pleasant experience for all.

1.  Be sure to clip all loose strings on the top & back side of the quilt.  These can really show through the top once the quilt is completed.  What a shame to have a beautiful quilt but have little "worms" showing through the pattern.

2.  Be sure all the seams are pressed closed and to one side as much as possible.  if there are large seams, the longarm machine has a harder time not wanting to "bump" over those areas.

3.  Press, press, press.  Once you're finished with your top, be sure to press the seams on the TOP side of the quilt to be sure you don't have any wrinkles pressed into the top.  Once pressed, fold it gently, but don't crease it, and place it in a box for shipping.  I charge $30 to press a top before sewing.

4.  Borders--Never, never, never just cut a piece of border material & then sew it to your top until you reach the end of the top.  Always, always, always measure your top in three places, find the average length, cut the border material to that length and then sew it to the top.  You may want to divide the border into fourths, pin it to the top, and ease in any differences along the way.  www.quiltuniversity.com has a FREE lesson on how to apply borders. 

B.  Is there anything special to prepare the backing?

1.  Be sure the backing is at least 6 inches wider & longer than the quilt top.  This gives me enough room to pin it onto the machine.

2.  Be sure to trim off the selvedge so your seams don't wrinkle when it is washed.

3.  If you have a pieced backing, be sure to press those seams, trim those threads, & then press the top side of the backing just as if you were doing the top.

4.  If you are piecing your backing, be sure the grain lines are going the same way, or it may get "skewed" after washing.

5.  Don't use sheets as backing.  They are really, really tough to sew through.  After all the hours of love you've poured into that quilt top, don't skimp when it comes to the finishing touches.

C.  What are the different types of batting and their advantages/disadvantages?

There are three types of batting that I carry: 

Wool

100% cotton

cotton/poly

A little info on batting types from the book "Heirloom Machine Quilting" by Harriet Hargrave.

1.  Wool--Very warm in cool or damp climates, and is more comfortable than polyester.  Wool breathes, keeping you warm in the winter and cool in the summer.  Low loft, soft and drapable.  Can be quilted from 1-3" apart.  Wool is naturally flame-resistant, therefore is an excellent choice for baby quilts.  More expensive than cotton or poly.

2.  100% Cotton--Two types here, one is a needle-punched and the other has a scrim of polyester over the top.  The poly keeps the fibers from distorting, but also the quilt isn't as soft and drapable as if you were using 100% cotton.  These battings do have a shrinkage factor between 3-5%.  It can be quilted up to 2" apart.  It is more flame resistant than poly.  Soft drape, thin, and extremely comfortable to sleep under.  This is not quite as warm as poly or wool.  It does not beard.

3.  80/20 Cotton/Poly-- This gives the look of 100% cotton, but can be quilted further apart than cotton.  There is less shrinkage and it is a low loft batting.  This is good for machine washing and takes a lot of wear and tear. 

Batting prices, if you order from me:

(Please include comment when ordering if you want batting added)

Hobbs 80/20:  18¢ / inch

100% cotton:  23¢ / inch

D.  What is bearding?

Bearding occurs most with polyester battings & is a result of the bonding that is applied on only the surface of the fiber, leaving the inside fibers loose and free.  When sewn, especially far apart, these fibers tend to sneak out of the holes created by the needle, and where there are white spots on the back of your quilt.  This can be minimized by quilting closer together, but then the quilt does lose some of its' puffiness.